Nine ways to drape a saree, and when each one makes sense

A drape is not decoration. It decides where the weight of the saree sits, how much the border shows and whether you can walk quickly in it.

Nivi

The default in most of India. Pleats at the front, pallu over the left shoulder. It suits almost every fabric and shows the pallu clearly, which is why it is the right drape for a brocade.

Bengali (aatpoure)

No pleats at the waist, pallu brought over the left shoulder, around the back and over the right. It carries a stiff cotton beautifully and keeps both hands free. Jamdani was practically designed for it.

Coorgi

Pleats tucked at the back, pallu pinned on the right shoulder. The most practical of the lot for moving about.

Nauvari

Nine yards, draped like trousers. Needs a saree woven to nine yards; a six-yard piece will not do it.

Which to pick

Heavy silk - Nivi, which lets the weight hang. Crisp cotton - Bengali or Coorgi, which both hold a stiff fabric. Sheer organza or Chanderi - Nivi with fewer, deeper pleats, so the drape does not read as bulk.